Post Scriptum: Day Eleven

All packed up, ready to go
Can you spot Maxie's restaurant: just round the corner from our apartment
The finger of God is pointing to where we stayed in relation to the Castle
The rear of the Royal Mile from Princes Street Gardens
The Udderbelly, one of the Fringe venues. We didn't go in but it looked fascinating!

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Sadly no diary was done today so just a few lines to close the blog.

The last morning was spent tidying up, carrying all our bags down five flights of stairs, and packing the cars. Anna and George left for West Yorkshire and Tine, Les & I wandered over to the Princes Street area whilst Jim parked the car again. We got a good view of the back of the Royal Mile and could picture what it must have looked like with all the tenement blocks built on the slope, down to the old Loch, now beautiful gardens, which was used for all the rubbish (and more!) from the Old Town. Perhaps that's why the land is so fertile!

We met Jim, Clare & Rob near the Udderbelly for a Guardian podcast, a very interesting experience, then bade our goodbyes to C&R and Edinburgh, and made our own way back to West Yorkshire and a good old Yorkshire take-away curry. At last!!!

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The last of the photos are to be found on http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDayEleven

And don't forget to keep reading http://anenglishmaninlatranche.blogspot.com/ for updates on Maison Clegg and our latest exploits!

Day Ten

View from the top of Arthur's Seat
Holyroodhouse on our way back from Arthur's Seat
Holyroodhouse with Greek-style pillars in the background
One of Tine's favourite street musicians. We even bought his album!
The last meal together (sob!)

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Day Ten(T):

Dave & I were first to leave the Big Brother House today for a change - not that we'd been evicted though, but because we were lucky with the bathroom! So we set off down the Royal Mile (again!) this time to aim for the foot of Arthur's Seat hill, and perhaps climb to the top... When we started the climb, we weren't too sure we'd make it to the top as it looked quite a hike and it was threatening to rain. However, very proud to say we made it and we escaped the shower until we got back to Holyroodhouse where we tried to shelter under the trees for a wee while. (Notice I'm already under the Scots' influence!) Anyway, the views from the top were very impressive on all sides. Unfortunately the light was not good, very grey and miserable, but Dave still tried to take a few photos. We walked back quite briskly in the hope of avoiding the rain and the promise of a cup of coffee and a bite to eat. Though not very successful at the keeping dry bit, we sat in a friendly little café and enjoyed coffee, panini and caramel slice: just the job before tackling our tour of Mary King's Close. But I'll let Dave tell you about it ...

Day Ten (D):

Possibly the high spot of our stay in Edinburgh (for us) was our visit to Mary King's Close where you descend (literally) to the depths of Edinburgh to see the tenement housing which dates back to the 17th Century when the Great Plague was rife. Our guide was Janet King, Mary's daughter, and she did an excellent job, keeping in role and frightening on or two of our group. Highly recommended!

Day Ten (L):

Jim & I set off for the Guilded Ballroom to investigate 'The Guardian Podcast' which was excellent, Miles Jupp interviewing four acts. We then sauntered down and called into 'The Elephant Café' of J.K.Rowling fame, and had cake and tea for lunch! I had really wanted to see 'The Withering', a new play based on Thomas Hardy's short story, so we made our way to the Quaker Meeting House. We were not disappointed, an excellent production by a young London-based drama school. By then it was time to meet up with everyone for an end-of-hols meal at Maxie's. It was great to enjoy a good laugh together: the haggis was good too! Our finale followed - up to the Assembly rooms to see Balé de Rua, a Brazilian dance group (a marvellously energetic group) and then Jason Byrne!!!

Day Ten (J):

After Jason Byrne we decided as a group to visit the Abernach, a pub we had all decided served an excellent pint of 80/-. Earlier during their stay Dave and Martine had visited the pub to check if the brew was ok. The previous day George & ! also checked the 80/- to ensure that the brew was suitable for a group visit. I reminded Martine to be tolerant with Dave during his second pint in a short time, that this would be his last pub session for quite some while!

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More photos on http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDay10

Day Nine

Two Elvis impersonators posing for Tine
'Graffiti Classics' looked like fun people
The debating chamber in The Scottish Parliament building
The Palace of Holyroodhouse
An Australian street performer: yes he got up the ladder with no help!

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Day Nine (L):

..... in the Big Brother House - it feels a bit like it with us all here together! An excellent day today, beginning with a leisurely roam along the Royal Mile, viewing the street performers and those showing snippets of their shows. A lovely lunch in the Turkish café then we left Tine & Dave free to explore Edinburgh and we headed for the ticket office. Fortunately Anna & George were already there, had been for some time, so Jim and George sneaked off for a quick beer and Anna and I persisted in our endeavour for tickets, some successful, others not. However we saw 'Elvis will hate me', an excellent although quite complex production that kept us thinking until we were back at the Strand for the nth year for the 'Best of Irish Comedy', as brilliant as ever. We then met Tine & Dave for a gorgeous French meal at Petit Paris in the Grassmarket, and finished the day off with Ian Stone (recommended by Clare & Rob) - excellent, fully deserving of his 5 stars.

Day Nine (J):

Although Les & I were out of the house from 11 am till midnight, this was still two hours less than the kids! I think that we will all be fitter as we walked back and forth across Edinburgh, especially when you take into account the steps - up and down thousands of steps throughout the day (not including the steps up to our fifth floor apartment.

Day Nine (T):

Dave & I had a lovely day walking up and down the Royal Mile (at least four times, how many miles is that?!!) watching street entertainers some of very high standard. We visited the Scottish Parliament building and loved it - it was worth having the guided tour. Just before 10 pm (after our French meal with J&L) we ran up the steps to the side of the castle in order to catch the Tattoo leaving. We did see them but they were disappointingly hurrying back to their coaches! The waiting was quite fun though amidst Italians and French people, watching the fourteen year old security lads trying to show the eager but very amenable crowd some authority. Dave & I returned 'home' for a drink and we watched a really interesting programme: Edinburgh through the eyes of Ian Rankin. We found it by chance and loved it.

Day Nine (D):

The Scottish Parliament building was a fabulous visit. From the outside the architecture isn't so impressive but the interior certainly had the wow-factor and our guide was excellent. We also saw the nearby Palace of Holyroodhouse the Queen's official residence in Scotland. Like the Parliament building it is beautifully set beneath the ancient volcanic hills.

Our meal at Petit Paris was wonderful. The restaurant was totally run by French to make us feel less homesick, and the food was excellent!

An exhausting day!

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As usual more photos available on http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDayNine

Day Eight

Julia's house, but she wasn't there!
Standards are slipping - 1/2 pints for Jim and me at Julia's local gastro-pub
View of Edinburgh Castle from our 5th floor appartment (leaning out!!)
Star-struck Les with Mark Watson
Anna, George mid-action and Jim - not forgetting Mr Watson in the background!

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Day Eight (T):

Well, today we said goodbye to Ardnamurchan. We woke up to torrential rain - a real shame for Anna & George's tent which they had pitched out to dry! They were quite philosophical about it and we all went about our packing and cleaning duty under Jim's controlling guidance ... We were gone by 9.55 am, 5 minutes ahead of schedule. All goes to show how much we live in fear of our leader!!

The journey was another very pleasant surprise with stunning scenery unfolding around every corner. The waterfalls were particularly spectacular and the light was beautiful as the rain stopped ... and came again, but mainly stayed at bay. We stopped at Pitlochry for a picnic, a spot of shopping (8 of us to feed soon) and a journey down memory lane for Anna who showed George her lab. Meanwhile, we oldies went in search of our old friend Julia. We found Kirk Lodge on a hill overlooking Pitlochry bu were informed by a lovely man with great accent that Julia was travelling and wouldn't be back until Tuesday. Typical! No doubt we'll hear about it all in our Christmas round robin.

Day Eight (L):

Well we finally arrived in Edinburgh - a brilliant location for our accommodation but very noisy day and night!! - even at six in the morning. The five flights of stairs up were also a challenge but well worth it.

Our first gig - Mark Watson - excellent - no more to say - especially as he agreed to be photographed - proof that I spotted him in the Pleasance Courtyard. The girls don't like me chatting to celebrities but if they didn't like being spotted and chatted to they wouldn't be celebrities, would they? Jim and I then saw a magical little production of 'Ella, Marlene, Marilyn and Me' by an Australian artist, Melissa Western.

Day Eight (J):

The joys of driving through Edinburgh's one-way system!! Ugh! But this was all forgotten watching Mark Watson. He even walked up to Les and spoke, asking her for a shared photograph and autograph - well almost!

Day Eight (D):

But we were there with the camera to record Les's 'rencontre' with the afore-mentioned Mark Watson. We saw him later doing his stand-up routine and he was excellent. Tine and I are Fringe virgins no more ....

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More Day Eight photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDayEight

Day Seven

Beautiful even when the weather is dull

We stayed to the SE of the peninsula
Tine, Jim & Anna striking a pose
George on bended knee!
A few pints were sunk at the Salen Hotel
Return of the pine marten!

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Day Seven (T):

Woke up to wild weather - rain and howling wind - great to see the loch so choppy, and to be able to enjoy all that from the safety of the cottage! After our usual relaxed breakfast, Jim & ! went hunter-gathering in our favourite shop in Acharacle, leaving L & D to prepare our bolognaise sauce for tonight. What a team!

Day Seven (J):

Boring - washing things ready for the big E. After a damp morning we were getting ready for going out when we heard a familiar voice from the side of our cottage - it was Anna and George. Their tent was destroyed in Skye and we were a safe refuge!

Day Seven (D):

So, six of us went to a local wildlife centre which was very interesting. Then a ride to show Anna and George the outer parts of the crater, THEN to the pub! Yes, we had a good few pints of 80/- (80 shillings) at Salen with Jim then Les on taxi-duty. Sadly we didn't see our favourite 'shaggy' sheep on the road, despite having cameras to the ready. Back to Camasinas for Les's spag. bol. (no, I didn't really help - Les is too efficient!) and a lovely evening with the youngstas!

Day Seven (L):

Our final day at Camasinas - weather poor this morning but gave us the chance to take it easy - we were just rallying ourselves to go out when A&G arrived and perked us all up. Good 'early doors' - didn't mind taxi-ing as I quite like driving along these narrow lanes. Got chatting to a girl at the Salen Hotel, a local who said that April/May had been particularly good this year. We were back home just in time to give pine marten his supper - he arrived on the dot at 9.30 pm and put on his show for the last time - we are concerned about what will happen next week.

Day Seven (G):

Wow, what a day. Woke up to torrential rain and wind at Glen Brittle campsite on Skye. After our tent failed us we sought refuge with parents-in-law. We were met with a hearty welcome and stunning views of the loch and west coast. After a quick bite we went to the visitors centre for a quick geology and wildlife lesson! Watched a very nice slide show about the area that reminded us of 'Last of the Summer Wine'. Finished off evening with a few jars of 80 shillings at the local pub, and fed the friendly pine marten. Yet another great place we have visited in Scotland!

Day Seven (A):

Only George was reminded of 'Last of the Summer Wine' since he thinks Yorkshire and Scotland are the same place! We were worried the oldies would have gone out for the day but, true to form, they were still in reading at 3 pm when we gate-crashed their tranquility. They generously showed us a bit of the Ardnamurchan peninsula before a few early-doors pints! Very nice! Looking forward to getting Dave on the front row of a show - fingers crossed he's noticed!

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More photos on http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDaySeven

Day Six

Young lovers by the loch-side

Product placement? What a view!
Dun Ghallain, an ancient Iron Age settlement
Tine in the giant ferns
'Twas a moonlicht nicht tonicht!
Evidence! The pine marten is captured by camera!

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Day Six (L):

I was actually able to photograph our dear friends lying in the sun, and I used suntan lotion! Our neighbours did say that this was highly unusual hence their large dogs were very excitable and woofed a lot. We all managed a lot of reading today and I did a couple of hours' otter-watch but to no avail - only seagulls, terns, and later on in the darkness the fascinating courtship of a pair of slugs. Oh, and it was the opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics - not sure what to think of that. It was, of course, very spectacular.

Day Six (D):

We actually got photos of the pine marten who arrived too early for his bread and marmalade supper but returned once Les had 'done the business'. Earlier Tine & I tried to scramble on the rocks at the end of the bay but were blocked by fencing going into the sea. Not to give up we went along the road and along to the next headland with a beautiful walk through the ferns down to the (once again fenced) water's edge. There we saw the small island at Dun Ghallain, home of an ancient Iron Age settlement.

Day Six (T):

Another lovely leisurely day, surprisingly hot around lunch-time - we made the most of the heat lounging outside with our books. It's amazing how suddenly the temperature drops in the evenings though - so much so even Jim & Dave welcomed the central heating! Had a game of cards ('Showie') just to reacquaint J&L with the rules. I managed to win even though I felt so tired! Pine marten and slugs watch duty are obviously harder work than you'd think!

I really enjoyed staying in our 'Camasinas' today even though, like Les, I failed to see any otters when I sat on Jim's rock, ready with binoculars and camera. No deer either although Dave & I walked deep into the forest, down a steep narrow path winding its way through very healthy ferns down to the loch. Some trees are gigantic but we didn't see or hear many birds.

Day Six (J):

A day of restful reading, lounging on the grass and rocks.

A starry night sky, complete with a luminous half-moon throwing a line of reflected light across the loch. (Some people are still calling it a lake - they will be re-educated!!)

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Complete photos for the day on http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDay6

Day Five

Ski-lift on Ben Nevis

Dave & Jim, intrepid mountaineers
4 go to Ben Nevis
Glenfinnan Monument on Loch Sheil
Yes, it's the Harry Potter viaduct taken from Glenfinnan
The sunset was amazing

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Day Five (L):

I'm writing this by candlelight in the conservatory so that I can 'pine marten watch' - tricky!! Anyway we needed to stock up on provisions today so we went to Fort William as the local shops at Acharacle are a little limited. Didn't realise it was so far! It took ages so everyone was famished by the time we arrived. We found a rather faded hotel that served light lunches which were fine. We did a 'big shop' at Morrison's then Jim took us to Ben Nevis: I'll let the others describe that. On our return journey we saw the most amazing sunset ever: loch, glen and mountain.

Day Five (D):

The journey to Fort William was long but the scenery was fabulous. This are is truly stunning and we WILL return!

Yes Jim took us to Ben Nevis and we used the ski-lift pods to go up the first section of the mountain, then walked a little further to about 660 m where we had fantastic views of the glens and lochs. We couldn't see Loch Ness but Jim pointed out the right direction for us. Apparently more courageous folk cycle back on their mountain bikes: we returned on the ski-lift!

Day Five (J):

An ecological disaster - the black labrador from along the bay stole the food set aside for the pine marten. Les will not rest until she has prepared a second supper. The pine marten arrived before supper was ready and he met an empty step - will he be disappointed and never return? Will Les wait up all night watching? Are we bovvered?

Day Five (T):

Yes actually, we are. In fact Les dutifully prepared a second supper in the hope that we'd attract the pine marten again. Sadly we gave up to go to bed without having seen our friend...but the supper disappeared by morning.

Earlier, near to Acharacle, we had another lovely 'wild life' surprise when we saw three young deer grazing peacefully by the side of the road. Jim backed the car up so we could watch them and take a photo. Unfortunately, although we had a really good chance to admire them, Les and I weren't quick enough with the cameras

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Once again, more photos can be found on http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDay5

Day Four

Les in studious mode
The oakwoods were totally unspoilt
We liked this skeletal tree!
Intrepid hikers
View over the loch from the Sunart Oakwoods

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Day Four (T):

It's about 9:30 am and we have all slept in this morning, safe in the knowledge that we didn't have a ferry to catch, or any shopping to do. I am sitting in the conservatory, listening to the rain, looking out to the loch gently rippling, and watching three oyster catchers which have been sitting on 'Jim's rock' for ages. Every so often one of them shuffles and the one at the front goes to the back, but they stay on stoically under the pouring rain. The hills opposite are shrouded in mist today and I suppose this is the real Scotland! It's certainly what Dave and I had been expecting so we have been very impressed so far with the amount of sunshine we've enjoyed.

Day Four (L):

Well today was more typical of a Scottish holiday - rain and grey skies but thankfully not cold. We took advantage of the weather to sleep in and then read our books, magazines and newspapers, also to write a few postcards. We finally ventured into Acharacle to buy a few provisions, and had a walk through the oak woodland on the far side of the loch. Such an amazing variety of vegetation; of particular note, the mosses and lichens. I am pleased with how I managed the terrain with the help of stick and Jim!! No pine marten tonight - we were late in so missed his supper time - hope he comes during the night.

Day Four (J):

The Salen Inn provided the evening meal. We were sat in the porch area near the door so that the inquisitive members of our group were able to see all the comings and goings. An elderly couple getting into their wet weather gear made us think - is this us in 10/15 years' time? Also of special mention was the beer - '80/-' ,pronounced 80 shillings in a soft Scottish burr.

Day Four (D):

I'm not sure if 'a soft Scottish burr' was the manner in which the barman spoke or the state of our heads after a wonderful meal and a few drinks. Thankyou, friends, for allowing me to fall off the wagon (well, comparatively!!)

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A few more photos can be found if you click http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDayFour

Day Three

The ferry from Kilchoan to Tobermorey
Is it Tobermory or Balamory?
The waterfall at Eas Fors
Old friends!!
Rod Stewart's castle (or so Les had us believe!)

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Day Three (L):

A brilliant day today. We arose very early so that we could catch the 10.15 am ferry to Mull when we would decide whether to continue to Iona. The weather was pretty good, warm and calm so we did enquire about visiting Staffa and/or Iona but the tourism officer in Tobermory shook her head and said that we would be too pushed for time. So we followed a route around the northern part of Mull. What a surprise - such a range of vegetation and landscape - spectacular views - mountains, verdant pastures (a small number), lochs and waterfalls - the Eas Fors waterfall was perfection. We had great success on the wildlife front today - sea-eagles - one over Calgary Beach and a pair circling the sky overhead near the waterfall - absolutely thrilling, (black) hooded crows, a stag and finally our pine-martin made an appearance at 9.30 pm licking the marmalade from the pitta bread then scurrying away with the bread he hadn't eaten on the spot. We were all amazed at the size of him - 60-70 cm in length with a beautifully soft, dark brown coat. Once again we had warm, sunny weather.

Day Three (D):

Loved the crossing this morning from Kilchoan to Tobermory. Les chatted up (or was chatted up by, depending who's talking) two 19-year old boys before we got on the ferry. Tobermory was as colourful as Balamory is on TV: a beautiful sea-front with vivid house colours. We had a lovely coffee (and chocolate for Jim) there before setting off for our journey around the northern section of the island.

Day Three (J):

To conclude the day out we decided to go for a meal at the Salen Hotel, however the place was full at 7.30pm. After booking for the next evening we decided to stay for a pint before going for fish and chips at Acharacle. To maintain our success with food - the fish and chip shop was shut - our thanks are due to Martine for creating a meal from meagre ingredients.

Day Three (M):

Courgettes, tomatoes, onions and feta cheese... call that 'meagre'!! Anyway, my 'tian' creation was lovely even though I say so myself. A good way to end our perfect day. It's very difficult to think of a favourite moment as there were so many thrills but spotting the deer, seeing the eagles and discovering the stunning waterfalls were all highlights. Walking along the very brightly painted houses of Tobermory in the sunshine (warm enough for me to take my jumper off!) was a real bonus too.

Whilst our meal was cooking we had a great long chat with Nadine who phoned us to share the fact that she's having a brilliant time in our home. All her friends are there and the weather has been perfect all day. She sounded really happy - we are thrilled.

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Once again view extra photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/PapamanPicasa/4GoToScotlandDayThree

Day Two

Senna Beach is just to the north of the ancient volcano

Acharacle High Street!
Picnic table at Ardnamurchan Point
View from the lighthouse - not a whale or dolphin in sight
Paddling at Senna Beach
The lovely clear water at Senna

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Day Two (T):

What a day! We've had a wonderful time even though there wasn't a dolphin or whale in sight! J&L took it in turn to drive us along the windy-windy road all the way to Ardnamurchan Point where we had some lovely bready buns four lunch (at a table with fantastic views) before going up the 140 steps of the lighthouse. Once at the top the guide told us about the lamps before naming all the islands we could see - pity I couldn't understand him very well!! We stayed there quite a while, enjoying the views - or pretending to watch a lengthy film about lighthouses at the Centre. I say 'pretending' as Dave thinks Jim was really having an old-man snooze... We saw quite a few French people there, which surprised me - I was dying to find out where they were from! The weather was so lovely, we decided to go to the beach at Senna with our books. It was another lovely road, very narrow with passing places and Dave and I were astounded by the beauty of the beach with very light sands, almost white, beautiful sea, very clear, against a rocky backdrop - a real paradise. We went paddling and exploring for a while before dozing/reading in the hazy sun. Bliss! Anyway I'm too tired to carry on but I'm sure someone will take over.

Day Two (L):

It was a lovely day today, good for Jim and me to return to Acharacle and check out the changes since we were last here. The bakery has moved next to the general store (extremely busy with the shopkeepers working like mad to keep the shelves full), and the baker is now running a gift/souvenir shop where Jim was able to buy another map! The baker is quite elderly now and said that the shop kept him occupied. Jim managed to chat up a very nice lady who gave us lots of advice about ferries to the islands and accomodation in the area - in great detail.

The view from the lighthouse, the most westerly point of mainland UK, was amazing across to Muck, Eig, Rhum and Mull. We were, of course, thrilled to learn that we had followed in the path of our dear Queen who had visited the lighthouse some years ago. The most surprising time of the day was the time at beautiful Senna Beach in the warmth and sunshine - we even had a little snooze and a read of our books and a paddle in the sea, not as cold as we expected. A fab day - even our pine-marten visited and ate his supper but we sadly missed him.

Day Two (J):

After a late night whisky we went out to look at the night sky - slight disagreement over whether moving lights were comets or planes. The sky was brilliant, so bright and clear.

Day Two (D):

My friends have forgotten to mention a very exciting part of our journey today, crossing an ancient volcano crater (or caldera as Jim insists on calling it!) You couldn't help but think it could wake up again after its long sleep. I don't think we'd have escaped it if it had as it was five miles in diameter. Amazing!

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